Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
