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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.